What are those lights in the desert? Party On, Kuwait!

No, not a cluster of UFO's....

I have been asked by an 'merican friend to explain what the hey is going on at night out in the desert and why there are so many camps with speeding Corollas around them. So, here goes. This is a slight re-write/update of an article that was published in a Western expat magazine in 2004 in Kuwait. Nothing mentioned here hasn't already been said in public print.

*******

Is there a party scene in Kuwait? Unless you have been living under a rock or just got off the plane, you will know that of course there is. Parties are going on in homes, chalets, in tents in the desert, and in little apartments all over Kuwait.

The most common form of Kuwaiti party is the “gaada” or gathering. Gaadas usually take place in very dark, very noisy apartments. These are considered the lowest-class of all parties and usually only involve couples or very close friends. Apartments are rented and fitted with sound proofing: some with an exterior and interior door. All have high-decibel sound systems that, if correctly fitted, should be undetectable from street-level. Shades on the apartments are always drawn (if the windows aren’t completely covered - sometimes by aluminum foil).

If you are a single female in Kuwait (regardless of nationality), you have an open invitation to most of the parties in Kuwait. For hosts, it is considered chic to have the most and the prettiest ladies at your parties. Single men have problems getting invitations as only some invitations are for couples. Ladies are always offered refreshments and never have to bring their own. Sorry guys!

There are preferred party locations; chalets in the summer (resort homes away-from-home), desert tents in the winter. B’naider and Julai’a are higher class areas for both summer and winter partying. Before the farms in Funaitees, Agalia, and along Fahaheel expressway were torn down (during the past years) to build new homes, parties were also held at farms close to the city. Now, those farms have been moved to Kabd which most party-goers consider too far and too dirty (serious party-goers in Kuwait will turn up their nose at the thought). Some of the wealthier farm owners have rented villas closer to the city, but in areas where the neighbors won’t complain about the flow of traffic. Again, most indoor parties are sound-proof, so noise is not considered a problem. Renting is preferred rather than owning because if the neighbors do complain too much, the owners can always pack up and rent elsewhere.

Historically, all Kuwaiti families used to spend 2 weeks every Spring when the kids are on vacation in the desert. It used to be a very family-oriented event: sometimes perhaps it still is, and I am sure many camps are only for families or just for guys; but in general, camping has morphed into what it is now. Most parties start after 12 am so the people can leave well after the police checkpoints have been shut down for the night (around 4 am). The past few years have been pretty stressful for those taking the risk of partying in the desert: a lot of people are afraid to party in the desert as there have been an increasing number of raids and checkpoints throughout Kuwait. The government formerly had had a somewhat "hands off" approach to the goings on in the desert - similar to Kubbar Island (which is also changing, as has been stated in the media).

Desert camp compounds form cities in the winter time. Camps start going up around October and are taken down by the municipality-mandated date of 1 April. Some, however, are semi-permanent with owners obtaining special permission from government offices to keep their camps in locations year-round. This preferential treatment is usually granted through good wastah; meaning that the camp owners are wealthy or powerful. In desert camps (and most every other aspect of housing in Kuwait) the name of the game is to outdo the neighbors. Tent prices have skyrocketed from a mere 100 kd for a basic small tent that could possibly hold ten people, to 15,000 kd for a fully-fitted Moroccan tent with lighting fixture, bathroom, and generator. Ahmed J, a former DJ, has become a millionaire in the process of importing and selling/leasing tents. His party camp rents for 1,500 kd per night and includes bathrooms with marble floors.

A camp should consist of a large tent to accommodate guests and dancing (big enough to fit at least 200 people), a kitchen tent and adjacent dining room/area, several bathrooms (both men’s and ladies with porcelain fixtures and plumbing), sleeping tents with king-sized beds and sofas (sleeping tents may or may not be fit with their own bathrooms); these are the basics. Western-style toilets are chic, Arabic/Turkish are not. Elaborate camps include palm trees, fountains, and tiled walkways in their courtyards (so that guests’ feet don’t get dusty). There is just nothing like having barbecue in the desert and there is usually someone cooking something (from shawarma stands to kababs).

The quality parties are easy to spot in the desert at night by the types of vehicles in front of the tents. Several years ago when the first new-shape Mercedes 500 SL was introduced to Kuwait, a camp (and hotel) owner purchased one of the first in the country and parked it directly outside his tent door (the new breed of Bedouin of the Arabian sands!).

What do you wear to a party in the desert: for the ladies, a soiree dress with heels and a warm coat. Most ladies leave their coats in their cars. The dresses are usually short or very long with (believe it or not) lots of skin showing. Men usually wear jeans or semi-formal attire (dishtashas have been almost completely replaced). An essential accessory to be sure not to forget to bring with you: ear plugs. As with most Kuwaiti-style parties, the music is loud enough to be heard by passing planes and the speakers are usually concert quality. You might also want to bring sunglasses for the drive home.

Unfortunately, because Kuwait is so small and the party crowd is equally as small, the same faces are at the same parties. Everybody knows everybody. (This, however, could be said about going to a nightclub at anyone’s hometown in the US or Europe.) Unfortunately, because everybody knows everybody, the gossip tends to be high and many of the Arab ladies either avoid the parties all together, or use different names. There is a well-known party schedule in Kuwait: people generally know where to go and who’s to attend at what time of year. The three days of Eid following Ramadan are huge for parties and refreshment prices soar. The party season generally starts as soon as the new school season begins and most people have returned from vacations. The desert camps start as soon as it gets cold. Chalets are generally year-round, although the outdoor activities start when it gets warm.

How do Kuwaiti parties differ from Western parties? Generally there is much less small talk. The music is too high for talk and the lighting is too low to see very far. No one usually bothers here to ask the Western party pleasantries such as, “What do you do for a living? Where do your kids go to school? How do you know (the host)?” You don’t ask these questions at Kuwaiti parties, as it is considered too nosy or gossipy. People here want to avoid being talked about (DG note: taking photos with your mobile phone will get your ass kicked). You could always exchange numbers and ask the questions later. So what do you do at these parties? Most of the time you sit and smile, dance, or sip on your refreshing drink. If your voice doesn’t go raw from shouting over the speakers, you can shout small talk. A better choice would be to take out your mobile phone and SMS your friend sitting across the room. Most of the time, if you want to see what party life is all about in Kuwait, you really have to know (and be invited by) a Kuwaiti friend.

So.... go forth, white people! Make Kuwaiti friends!