My Advice to Western Companies Seeking Sponsorship in Kuwait

You can read a previous post about a recent case where a Western company, GLS, had employees who were "held captive on bases" because of a contract dispute with their sponsor. [They weren't literally held captive, but I believe they chose to stay there because  if they left the camps (because we don't have "bases" in Kuwait), they would be jailed and deported.]  I have heard that these employees are being assisted in leaving.  The sponsor company has asked GLS for $20 Million to transfer the employees, but that is kind of a mute point when the employees have been deported/have to leave the country (and are blacklisted).  The employees went through Hell (I believe unnecessarily) and now GLS' reputation is tainted globally through the media.

Although I don't know much about the case directly, what I believe the underlying cause was is a lack of understanding of Kuwaiti laws.  I think the company, GLS, perhaps connected with a company that they didn't know that much about and then (perhaps - and I'm only speculating)  didn't provide enough information to their employees - or provided inappropriate information.

Here is my advice to any Western company seeking a sponsor (or sponsorS) in Kuwait.  And by the by:  You don't need to commit to ONE sponsor company exclusively for all your employees in Kuwait.  Large companies working in Kuwait are catching on to this.  You can work with several and if one isn't doing the job for  you, stop using them later.  Don't put all your eggs in one basket.  Risk management.

Do your homework!  Due diligence!!!  Just because a sponsor company has a member of the royal family attached to it somehow does NOT mean that they are ethical and/or will get your job done.  (OMG -  the stories!!!)  That affiliation sounds like a great selling point, but get references, check around.  Check the reputation of the person or people you are dealing with regardless of who they are.

Sometimes, Littleshittycompany LLC has an Egyptian mandoob (government liaison for the company/gopher/expediter)  who is actually doing all their work for them, is beloved at ministries, and has kept Littleshittycompany LLC's reputation in check for the past 25 years by having tea with the big boys in government offices.  These guys git 'er done here.  If a company has fired a succession of mandoobs, move on/look elsewhere.  The mandoob is the key to successful completion of all the paperwork.  And employees, never ever underestimate the power of your sponsor company's mandoob.  Bake them some damn cookies.  Buy their kid a gift.  Do whatever it takes to suck up.  Need something done?  You gotta scratch some backs.

And people please:  Verify, verify, verify!  Ask for important items to determine if a company is on the up-and-up/legit:

• A current Kuwait business license (it will be in Arabic.  Establish a prior relationship with a translator.)
• References from current or former sponsored companies (POC current/active e-mail addresses so that you can contact them yourselves.  Do not rely on their "outstanding references")
• Financial statements - 3 years back or more.  Audited by a big 4 company?
• Who is the authorized signatory and is he/she in Kuwait often?  Ask for a copy of the authorized signatory letter (Arabic).  (Note that the authorized signatory should be the ONLY person signing contracts/official documents with your foreign company - no one else.   Otherwise, the document may not be legal.)
• Insurance:  DBA Insurance (or knowledge of how to obtain it).  Private healthcare (who do they deal with - ask to see several options).
• Ask if they have the ability to "Open files"/sponsor X number of employees under Article 18 visas. 
• Ability to assist in obtaining drivers licenses in Kuwait
• Ask for certification (in writing) that no other company they have sponsored in X years has filed court cases against them. 
• Ask if they have any branches outside of Kuwait (may help you if you need to litigate later).
• Additionals:  Accommodations:  ask to see where they will be housing employees (or referring employees for housing).  Transportation:  What types of vehicles?  How old?  Does the sponsor company have any established relationships in order to offer your employees discounts? (Ok, now you are just messin' with them!)
• Name(s) of company mandoobs.  How many years in service to the company.
• (Probably more that I can't think of right now and feel free to chime in on comments.)

I was asked (by a sponsoring company) to complete a  due diligence questionnaire for a Western company (ok, I'll just say it - it was Honeywell)  to fill out before they would even consider working with them.  Those guys have it together.  That's the way you do it.  Send it out to several/many potential sponsoring companies and ask them to attach the above.  If they are professional, they'll be able to complete it.  If not, move on.

The sponsor company WILL be taking your money.  That's how they are in business.  They need to PROVE to you that they are worthy BEFORE you start doing business with them; not just when you need them to expedite a drivers license or (God forbid) when you have to take them to court for something.  The sponsor company WILL be responsible for the well-being of your employees while in Kuwait.  This is a very important role.  Why take chances?

And Western companies please - before you even think about doing business in Kuwait - Begin and maintain a good relationship with a Kuwaiti commercial lawyer/firm.  There are many. Some are ABA registered.  Have them draft/review your sponsorship agreement.  Put them on retainer so that if you need to ask questions (or have them write letters to your sponsor company to keep them in line) they are at your disposal.  Know your rights and the rights of your employees under the laws of Kuwait.  If you were in the US or Europe, you wouldn't play around with the laws or employee obligations; why would  you do it in a foreign company where there is so much more risk?

Which sponsoring company in Kuwait do I recommend right now?  Defcon Support (www.defconsupport.com) is run by an American who sponsors companies in Kuwait. (Note that in order to sponsor people in Kuwait, the company must be owned 51% by a Kuwaiti and I don't know who his Kuwaiti partner is.)  Se habla English and have good contacts with the American/Western community in Kuwait as well as Western embassies.

Western Employees:  
You should ask the company you are going to work for if they have done their homework.  Ask, in writing, if the employing company has done due diligence on the sponsor company.  Ask for DETAILS of the sponsor company (name, name of executives, website, etc.).  God forbid you should need it later, but you might.  How many Westerners have I asked, 'So, who is your sponsor?'  "I dunno."  Or - if they do know:  'What is the name of the owner/principal?'  "I dunno.  I don't remember.  Al something."  No! No! No!  Bad employee!  Are you crazy??  Sponsor means you are under their control for the duration of your time in Kuwait.

Lemme break it down to reach a certain target audience:
It is like staying at someone's house in another state/city/country.  You don't know Flana (your Kuwaiti sponsor company) very well, but she's invited  you and your friend, Bob, (your employer)  to come on over.  Sounds good:  You like to travel and see new things and the price is right.   You don't know who Flana is  or what her address is.  You just don't bother with the details because hey - it's all good.  Flana seems nice.  You hop on a plane..... Then....  You're staying at Flanas and go out for a while and can't remember how to get back to her house  in a taxi. You don't have her address or last name.   Once you finally get back there, Flana has wigged out and locked the door.  She's acting all weird and has just gone pompei and put all your stuff out on the lawn after taking the money from your wallet! WTF!   (Betcha didn't see THAT comin'.)  What's up with Flana?  Who is this person?   Forget that Bob is staying there too.  Bob's not going to help you get back home. Bob didn't know Flana any better than you did when you decided to go visit.  (He was just looking at you with that same big stupid grin on his face when he thought he was getting a comfortable ride.) Bob is in the same dilemma and doesn't  know what's going on either.  You're both screwed because you haven't done your homework.  (Did you ask someone about Flana's recent problems with the law or that she has a mental disorder?)  Didn't your mother ever tell you to keep a quarter and taxi fare in your pocket just in case?  Did you listen?

Here's your quarter and taxi fare:
Do you have a Kuwaiti lawyer who is going to help you? Do you know how to find one should something happen?   Learn about where you are going (and how to get back).  You can't just rely on the embassy to help you out.  That's your responsibility.  The embassy has a listing of lawyers, but are they going to take your case?    What if one day you stop receiving your paycheck?  Whatchagonnado?  Plan in advance.  Make friends.  Establish contacts.

People - know your rights.  Download the Kuwait labor law.  You're an adult.  Act like one. (Both employers and employees.)   Don't just fly off without a plan.

Leaving Kuwait? Know your legal obligations!

I got a question from a reader which was interesting and I thought I should reply to and post on the blog for others’ information. 

Disclaimer:  I am not a lawyer.  I do not pretend to be one.  I am writing from personal knowledge/experience.

Lady’s son was here on a contract with an American company (but that had sponsorship through a Kuwaiti company), left Kuwait because of an emergency, took another job somewhere else, then returned to Kuwait, only to be arrested at the airport for absconding.

As y’alls know, it is a pain in the derrier to get a residency visa (that’s a whole ‘nother post).  Security clearances, fingerprints, medical tests, etc.  So, when it comes to leaving, you can’t just pack and go. There are things that you must do (legally) to “close out.” 

Those cars you see at the airport parking lot with flat tires and covered with dust: probably belonged to people who did not properly close out. 

American companies often do not fully understand what they are getting themselves into when starting operations in Kuwait (see last paragraph/note of this post).  Then, it becomes a Chinese whispering game to explain the rules of the land to their employees.  There is an American Business Council here, but they will most likely only provide  you with the name of a lawyer.  It is also NOT the mission of the US Embassy (here, there, anywhere) to assist Americans:  They are on diplomatic missions in the countries where they are.  Plus, add to the problem that most embassy staff are only here on 2 year rotations and may spend their time with other Americans working at the embassy.  In fairness, 2 years is not sufficient time to learn everything about the country where they are posted.  They also can't help everybody with everything.  Not their yob.

The relationship between the sponsor and the American company: 

Kuwait requires that businesses are owned 51% by Kuwaitis.  So, if Western companies wish to do business in Kuwait, they need to set up a business with a Kuwaiti partner (at 51% - which is why many Western companies choose not to set up operations here) or a joint venture of some kind where a sponsor company will allow (for a fee) the Western employees to work under the sponsor company's business license - which includes visas.  Some companies provide visas for a fee independently of any shared business interests.   In the US, it would be similar to you or I having a company, and sponsoring a foreign worker on an H1 visa.  You, as the sponsor, are responsible for the whereabouts of that worker.  If he "skips" - you have to fill out a whole lot of paperwork and may be responsible for associated fees (legal and otherwise).

What happens when a person leaves Kuwait without properly "signing out" with the sponsor and the Kuwaiti government:

Each company is only allocated X number of visas per year.  The sponsoring company must prove to the government that their workers are being paid and treated fairly.  (For example, if an employee suddenly stopped getting paid, the sponsor company should – in theory – get in trouble as salaries are being direct-deposited.)   If an employee  leaves without handling the proper paperwork, the government fines the company and can either close their file (meaning they can close the company for a period of time) or the government can decide not to extend any additional visas to the company; therefore the company loses money.  It becomes exceptionally more difficult for the company to file paperwork on an employee - like lady's son - who has left the country without handling his paperwork properly.  There are costs incurred and time spent.  They must (legally) register a case with the Kuwaiti court (to prove that they are no longer sponsoring the employee) that the employee has "absconded".  Sometimes, they must even post a public announcement in the newspaper with the employee's photo. This also covers the company in case the employee has committed/will commit a crime (like theft, murder, whatever... or just decide to hang around illegally in the country) in the future. 

Then it becomes a matter for the government to find the person who has skipped and figure out why they are still in the country; basically, the employee has a “warrant” on them at this point.  If they leave Kuwait and return, they can be arrested – just like the States where if you have an open warrant, you will be arrested until you can resolve the matter.  (Like one of my friends who closed his US bank account and forgot a check still out for $9.  He was arrested on a bench warrant at Atlanta airport as soon as he got off the plane. Not fun to spend 2 days of your vacation in jail.)

 (As a commentor wrote today, teachers who "pull a runner" can be blacklisted in the entire GCC.  If you have a REALLY bad experience with your employer, please seek legal assistance from a local lawyer before it comes to that.)

Anyone moving to a foreign country MUST  know the laws of that country.  Don't take the word of me, your company, or anyone else.  Research and educate yourself.

I’m not saying that the lady’s son was to blame.  It may have been that the American company he went to work for did not properly advise him of his obligations, but that would be hard to prove in a US court, lengthy and expensive.

What should her son have done? 

By law, anyone residing and working in Kuwait must provide 3 month’s notification to their employer before ending their employment.  (The company may make the determination to let the employee go prior to the end of the 3 months, but it is to their discretion.)  Then, the company should make arrangements with the Ministry of Social Affairs and Labor to close out the employee’s file.  He/she will be given 30 days to stay in the country before having to leave Kuwait (and accruing daily fines).   Employees can also go to the Ministry of Social Affairs and Labor (MOSAL or “Shaoun”) and cancel their visa, but I believe they require a release letter from their employer.  They may also require a bank clearance.

So, her son should have given his employers’ notice that he had an emergency (in writing).  If he had to leave same-day, he should have returned to Kuwait and cancelled his visa – or – before leaving Kuwait the first time, hired a lawyer and signed a power of attorney to deal with his affairs.

*NOTE:  American companies operating in Kuwait or lawyers requiring assistance in writing “What to Expect” manuals for their employees living working in Kuwait:  Write to me!  amerab@gmail.com.  My rates are reasonable and I can facilitate/customize your requirements.

DG Info: Information for Teachers

I get a lot of questions from teachers who are either interested in coming to Kuwait to work, or who have been offered jobs by schools in Kuwait.

I'm not a teacher, I'm not involved in education, and have no kids; so I'm useless on this subject.  I do get comments from readers - some trashing particular schools where they have worked.  Unfortunately, those negative comments are better suited for forums on the subject; not really for my blog.  So, I often don't post them.

I always try to help people as much as I can and respond to all e-mails and questions.  Since I receive so many questions on this topic, I thought I would post my standard response: 

You should check out one of the teachers forums in Kuwait and pose your questions there.  Here are several:

http://www.expatexchange.com/kuwait/liveinkuwait.html

http://community.justlanded.com/en/Kuwait/forum/teaching

http://www.ajarnforum.net/vb/living-and-teaching-in-the-middle-east/47566-teaching-in-kuwait.html

http://www.wordtravels.com/forum/comments.php?DiscussionID=7142

http://www.internationalschoolsreview.com/nonmembers/kuwait-survey-results.htm

http://forums.eslcafe.com/job/viewtopic.php?t=81600

http://www.expat-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=132363

http://www.eslbase.com/advice/kuwait

Ask questions of those who know and form your opinion based on overall concensus.  I wouldn't look at it from any 1-sided opinion, but gather as much info as you can.

Good luck!

Guided Tours of Kuwait: Narodna

A reader has asked me to post this.  GLADLY.  It is about someone created tour packages with reasonable prices and reasonable terms and conditions (like reasonable numbers of minimums).  Good on ya. 

Now, for the love of God, will someone please publish chalet and farm rentals in English with English speaking agents?

Unlike Nuzha Tours, these guys don't have a minimum number of people necessary to take the tours, so if you have someone visiting, they are really convenient.

"Are you fed up with the shopping malls and the same restaurants? Do you yearn to see a piece of the real Kuwait?

Guided tours can be arranged for your enjoyment with a bilingual guide and driver who can pick you up from your hotel/house/apartment and drop you back.

Option 1:
Dickson House, Sadu House, Kuwait National Museum, Harem Souk, Heritage Souk (include set menu traditional dinner)
12 KD per person

Option 2:
Kuwait Modern Art Museum, Kuwait National Museum, Gulf War Museum, shopping in Harem Souk and Heritage Souk (include set menu traditional dinner)
12 KD per person

Option 3:
Kuwait Modern Art Museum, Maritime Museum, traditional heritage café,(include set menu traditional dinner),shopping in Harem souk and Heritage Souk
12 KD per person

Option 4:
For those who like shopping (Friday and Saturday)
Friday Market, Iranian Souk, Material Souk, traditional heritage café,(include set menu traditional dinner),shopping in Harem Souk and Heritage Souk
12 KD per person

Option 5:
Full day on Morqab Farm (dogs, sheep, goats, chickens, fish pond, etc) with traditional kuwaiti lunch, bbq dinner in evening with shisha, complimentary arabian tea, coffee and soft drinks.
(6 persons min)
10 KD per person

Option 6:
Camel racing (December to March) with dinner at Morqab Farm, including shisha, complimentary Arabian tea, coffee and soft drinks.
10 KD per person


Contact us on email:  narodna_trading@yahoo.com, or mobile:  (965) 6510-0772

- End -

If anyone takes the tours, let me know your feedback.

DG Index: Salon Picks (Updated 2011)

I've updated this list a little for 2011.  I'm still getting requests/recommendations and that's great - I'll keep adding.  Please feel free to write to me to tell me more.

“Ask and ye shall receive”. I LOVE requests – especially when I have downtime at work and am getting bored being evil to my colleagues. Thanks, Josephine, for asking for this one!

Hair

     Highlights

Ashlee at Strands, Fanar, is still my all-time favorite colorist in Kuwait.  After all these years, she is the best.  I don't mind the prices because after searching around/trying other salons, I know that Ashlee will give me the best quality color that will last the longest.  (I even tried Tony & Guy; the color faded.  I also felt like the stylists were more concerned with their own appearance in the mirror than working on mine.) Ashlee is very good at color/highlights and does quality extensions (CHA CHING at 500 kd to begin and 250 KD for after-care). Strands Fanar: 25711237.

     Haircuts

Doree at Pineapple Salon in Shaab (off 30 – Fahaheel Expressway) does amazing cuts and did Slapperellas bob (bobs are hard to do) for several years. I don't trust her with color, however. [Why do these ladies think it is ok to put color on hair on roots on hair that has been highlighted for years? It is SO WRONG and messes up your hair bigtime.] Pineapple: 22622100.

People have been asking me about Eden. I used to go to Danielle at Images waaaaaay back when I first arrived in Kuwait. She does great hair – both cuts and highlights - and at reasonable prices. However, she is very difficult to get an appointment with – so much so that I get pissed off about it.

I haven't tried her yet, but Candice (formerly of Beach House I believe) cuts my friends' hair and does an amazing job.  She will go to your home to cut your hair now.  (Write to me for her number at amerab@gmail.com).  My friend, Libra (bflyonthewall@gmail.com or write to me for her number) does an amazing job with a pair of scissors.  You have to go to her home in Egalia, but like my friends say, "She has magic hands" and my hair seems to grow faster after a cut from her.

Cutting Edge is always a safe bet for short, trendy styles.

     Keratin Treatments

I haven't ventured beyond Strands, I must admit.  I trust Ashlee not to damage my hair.  I've had both the Brazilian Blowout and the Chocolate treatments at Strands.  Both had good results; although the Brazilian Blowout didn't last as long as the Chocolate (maybe because I started using the wrong shampoo/conditioner immediately following and no one told me different.  You should use non-sulphate, non-sodium).  Most salons in Kuwait offer keratin treatments that smooth out the hair and make it straighter.  All hair has keratin in it and this replaces what you've lost.  It aint cheap (80 to 200kd - although all keratin treatments are basically the same!):  call around for quotes and make sure the room is ventilated when you have the process done.

Manicure/Pedicures


      Nails 


2011 Update:  Eden salon does Shelak and Gelish nails that last 2 to 3 weeks. Nails retain their shine and great look for that entire time.  I've been having both manicures lately; however, my nails are so thin/brittle that if I don't immediately go in for another manicure when the Shelak/Gelish starts to chip/peel, my real nails underneath get very damaged.  Gloria or Jane at Eden are both very good. (Eden:  2241-9557)

For just a regular manicure/pedicure and hamam zaid (hot oil treatment): Oriental Princess in Salmiya. 25711255. Oriental Princess does everything on volume with low prices, so a mani/pedi will run around 4 KD. Oriental Princess also gives great hot stone massages in a clean, tranquil environment at around 30 KD.

Note to tha Newbies, Kuwait’s laws on hygiene in salons aint what you might be used to. You might consider bringing your own tools or a bottle of alcohol to ensure that everything is sterilized.

     Pedicures

I go for paraffin wax because it makes your feet so soft. I tried the Elements Spa at the Royal Hayatt Hospital and oooooooh my God it was nice. Prepare to be there for a while, and bring a book or iPod. You will be in for an amazing experience – at the same price as you would pay for a paraffin wax pedicure anywhere else.They give you fresh fruit and tea and scrub your legs and do your toes.  O.M.G. The spa is run by Banyan Tree and everything is Thai and tranquil. They also use thai products and paint the wax on your feet (more hygenic than dipping). Royal Hayatt’s main number is 2536-0000 and ask for the spa.

Eden doesn't have the massage pedicure chairs and I'm really picky about that (most places in Kuwait - even the really good quality salons do NOT have massage chairs.)  If I'm going to be anywhere for an hour or more having someone to my feet, I've got to have a decent massage chair because I have a bad back (circus sex - let's not go there).  Please write to me and tell me of salons with massage chairs for pedicures. The only one I know of is Femme Fatale in Mangaf and the pedicure wasn't that great.


If anyone knows of other salons with massage chairs for pedicures, PLEASE write to me!!

Tanning

     Tan in a Can

Strands – either location. Mary Lou does either spray tanning or the kind that you apply by putting it on like lotion. I’ve had the later: It was like having a massage because first she exfoliates your skin (while you’re on the treatment bed), you go to take a shower, and then you come back and she applies the tan. While you are laying there (lying or laying? Mom?), you can also get your hair deep-conditioned.  It is like having a massage and getting tanned all at the same time.

     Spray Tan & Tanning Beds

2011 Update:  Tantastic in Salmiya does spray tan and also Shelak manicures.  Eden has tanning booths.

I had NO IDEA how many Kuwaiti women were getting fake-tanned, but OMG - I sat in Eden getting a mani/pedi and their tanning booth actually overheated!  The girls were in and out of there every 15 minutes.  I asked if it is a trend and the manicurist told me that Kuwaiti girls don't care about the dangers; they'll come in straight off the beach and ask to use the booth, already read.  WTF.  There are going to be serious skin cancer issues down the road in Kuwait if someone doesn't step up and educate these girls.

Make-Up

I don't do the "Carnie Ho" look.  My friend, Libra, used to work for CNN and does amazing make up.  She is an artist with spray make-up to make you look flawless.  She can turn you into a ho if that's what you want (heeeeyyyy, no judgement here), but I like the simple, elegant look.  Libra:  bflyonthewall@gmail.com.

Although not a "pick":  Hanan Dashti salons do the Kuwaiti wedding make-up look.  Em... not so much for me, but here is her site (and you can also check out photos online):  www.hanandashti.com.  (Ah, nothing says "blushing bride" better than 10 tons of make-up.)  

     Semi-Permanent Eyelash Extensions

First, you can get fake eyelashes put on at almost every salon in Kuwait.  But - if you want them to last up to 6 months, there is only one person in Kuwait I know that is CERTIFIED to do the procedure - and that is Libra.  She does "Extreme Lashes".  It is a 2 hour process where  you lay/sleep on her massage bed and she applies the lashes one-by-one.  (She also has to take them off.)

Ok readers – you are free to comment with your own favorite picks now. I’m sure there are many.

DG’s Short List of Great Places/Services Kuwait

Nothing is “short” in my world, but…

You've read my bitching, moaning and complaining about places in Kuwait, and I know, you've probably been thinkin along the lines of Papyrus... One of my readers, Papyrus, has left very kind comments and has made me see the err of my ways in terms of keeping an equal balance of good vs evil; positive vs negative. It is at Papyrus’ suggestion that I offer the following Desert Girl opinion of outstanding places to go in Kuwait – where the standard of quality is consistent (more times than not). Thanks, Papyrus!

… Sidebar: This is rather ironic because only last night I stared to re-read a book called “Count Your Blessings” which advises to equally balance all things: good and bad. Children, that is our lesson for today.

Restaurants

Definitions: What makes a good restaurant in my opinion? 1) Food. 2) Good Service. 3) Atmosphere. By #3, I also mean – no screaming kids/a quiet place where you can hear what your companions are saying. I’m not rating loud restaurants because I never go/return to them – me no like.

I’m going to have to go back to these places and get exact names of meals so I can update this later to be more specific.

Sushi

Who doesn’t know by now how much I love sushi? Purgy… wait for it… Well, I’m in a conundrum: I have been going to Sakura for 12+ years (13 in October) and have always loved it… until lately. They seem to be slipping – not in service, which has actually improved a lot – but in the quality of fish and the variety. I’m thinking Maki and Sushi Club are starting to kick their ass on the playground battle for best sushi in Kuwait. Maki pisses me off (Yo! DG – stay focused on positive!) because they are a rip-off on price, and yet no one can beat their variety. Their fusion thing in a martini glass is awesome. I also like the way they go above-and-beyond being imaginative. I have also had sushi from Sushi Club recently and yum-mers! They rock.

Kuwaiti

Shatiya Watiya Restaurant in downtown Kuwait: I’ve never had a bad meal there. The portions are enormous. The wait staff remembers you and SMILES. It is a traditional Kuwaiti restaurant with meals that taste like home cooking – and portions to match being in your living room with the family. If you make friends with Manager, Nasser, you’ll have a friend for life. What do I like the best there? Hard to say: Tashreeba, murabian, qaboot…. There are many. They have only just increased their prices – slightly – in the past 10 years, but they are still incredibly reasonably priced.

Freej Suwaileh: Also a Kuwaiti restaurant. I like their food. Service needs improvement and the ambiance isn’t terrific, but did I mention the food? They do a little DG trick: Serve gaymat as soon as we sit down. WHO wouldn’t love THAT? It is also open all night.

Mubarakia open-air restaurants: Everybody has got to try the little cafes and restaurants at Mubarakia at least ONCE during their stay in Kuwait. Try shrimp hameesa – it is similar to shrimp fajitas (if you like that). When the weather gets a little cooler, it will be a great place to go for cheap eats. Most places serve tea after dinner. Its just a cool place to visit.

Café: The One Café. They practice continual improvement and they care. They have a comments book – if you have a comment, you can write it then and there and they will show it to other guests and take the time to explain how they made improvements. I complained about something there – once – long ago and the next time I came in, they actually remembered me and went out of their way to fix it. Great breakfasts, great coffee, great squishy chairs to get lost in. Deserts will rock your world! They change their menus all the time, but they always have something interesting and good. My definite all-time favorite on the menu (usually around Christmas) is pumpkin cheesecake. Oh. My. God.

Thai: There is only one Thai place in Kuwait that has won my heart: Oriental Cuisine across from the Dasman Model School in Sharq. It is a hole-in-the wall with only 4 tables, but outstanding Thai food; better, in my humble DG opinion, than the Blue Elephant and waaaaay less expensive. Great service (especially when the owners’ young son is helping!)

Chinese: Peking in the Radisson Hotel. Scallops – yummmm. Expensive, but worth it.

Elegant/Romantic: Probably the most romantic restaurant (so Desert Girl says) is Ricardo in the Sheraton. It’s also purty pricey. This is a “know thy fork” type of restaurant – the kind that my mother spent years teaching me about. The Italian food is great, the wait staff keeps a distance, but a watchful eye. Everything is crystal and roses. Guys, if you have phucked up bigtime with your lady and want to make amends, Ricardo is THE place to take her.

Steak: Gaucho. Argentinean steak house. Need I say more? Ask for server, Desmond. He’s from South Africa and such a great guy with an amazingly sharp sense of humor. There is also a French restaurant at the back side of Fanar Mall (again, feeble mind syndrome – can’t remember the name) that only serves steak, salad, and pomme frittes (French fries, chips, freedom fries – whatever you wanna call ‘em). I have yet to try the Brazilian steak house in the Movenpick at the Free(less) Trade Zone and I’ll let you know on that one later.

Fish/Seafood

No doubt about it – Housny in Hawalli. I have tried many many other seafood restaurants in Kuwait, but I keep going back to Housny. It doesn’t have the ambiance of other more expensive places, but definitely has the best shrimp and grilled fish in all of Kuwait. The service is remarkably good for a less-expensive place also.

Nicest Place to Eat Beside the Sea

Hands-down it is the (what the Hell is the Name) buffet restaurant at the Movenpick, Bidaa. Waaaaay pretty with tables on a terrace facing the sea. "some enchanted eeeevning..."

2nd best: Blue Elephant (Thai) at the Hilton.

Where to Go so the spouse won’t see you together

I don’t do this, but just incase you are wondering: Gulf Royal Chinese restaurants have “cabinas” (small private rooms). Sakura has private rooms (usually for parties of 4 or more). Housny also has cabinas (which might actually work out better if you are a sloppy seafood eater –especially if you like crabs).

Best Restaurant for Where to dine if you want to B.Y.O.B.

They do exist in Kuwait and some places will even bring in the appropriate glasses and de-cork/serve you. I don’t know of ANY specifics and even if I did, I would never tell. If you want to send me guesses – be my guest.

Sheesha

I don’t smoke sheesha, but I like the smell. I have friends who like it, so when I want to eat with them and they want sheesha, I want to be somewhere that is well ventilated and also serves either food or coffee that I want while they’re smoking. I like the atmosphere in Ayam Zaman in the Crowne Plaza. Bless their hearts – they really do try to give good service. The Movenpick at Bidaa is also a nice place to go for sheesha.

The “Way-Home” Breakfast

Bayan Restaurant in Salmiya very close to Noodles. You can take home chapathi and eggs, chai/7alib starting at 4:30 am….well before McDonald's...

Light food/Sandwiches

I have a few favs.

Ayami (Damn, I can’t remember the name – above Starbucks at Marina Crescent). It is a fusion restaurant – kind of a mixture of Lebanese and Moroccan. Me likes. They have a different variation on the standard Lebanese dips. Check it out sometime. The food is great, but unfortunately, the service needs improvement (I didn’t say “it sucks” – I am trying to maintain positive). The food is great. I like the pizza thingys and the spinach/hummos dip.

Awtar Libnan is Lebanese and I’ve been to their locations at Marina Mall and in Jahra. Both are great – good service, good food, very nice appropriately-spaced tables (so you aren’t sitting on top of other patrons like some restaurants). Grilled halloommmmm.

I just re-visited Grillo on Restaurants Street for the first time in several years and their shrimp fajita sandwich rocks. I remember their sandwiches being small, but this was meal-sized and quite a few shrimps. An extra added bonus is that the restaurant is situated right next to the front entrance of the male-only Platinum Gym. You can see all the talent coming and going while you are chowin down; feasting your eyes (one in every 100) while you feast on sammich.

Doo-Doo in Salmiya for falafel sandwiches. It's way better than "doo-doo" or "poo-poo"! :)

(Sheel-o-meshi used to be my favorite place for a steak sandwich, but they reduced the size and the quality and now you have to buy about 5 of them to make it the size of the one they used to serve – and on different bread.)

Take-out

I’ve tried a lot of the restaurants on http://www.6alabat.com/ (which ROCKS by the way!). Casper & Gambini is consistently good with good customer service/drivers. It gets to you quick. Also good for lunch meetings when you have guests at work. Good salads also. Indigo is Indian home-delivery only and those guys ROCK. Again, quick service, great food (try the hamoor biryani). If you can get Fresh Fish (name of the restaurant) delivered where you are – go for it. The prices are so reasonable and they deliver fresh seafood to your door. I love grilled fish and can’t get enough from this restaurant. I wish they had steamed crabs, but no one in Kuwait does.

Here is my restaurant wish-list for Kuwait:

Crab House (what I wouldn't give to bang on a crab on a brown paper covered table, sippin on a cool Barbican....)
Authentic Mexican (not the pseudo crap!)
Large-variety salad bar (salad only!) Why doesn't anyone in Kuwait serve a good salmon salad??
“Happy Hour” – I don’t know why restaurants here can’t do happy hour at 5:00 without alcohol. It would be a great marketing gimmick and they could offer finger foods and non-alcoholic drinks. Even if you started a restaurant CALLED “Happy Hour”… People already go to coffee shops to meet other people. Why not start happy hour for working professionals?

Spas

The Royal Hyatt Elements Spa. By far, my favorite so far. I don’t know if it caters to men, however. It’s gorgeous. They understand good, quality services and products. The Royal Hyatt is managed by Banyan Tree Resorts and the spa is totally Thai.

Spa Aquatonic at the Holiday Inn, Crowne Plaza: Wow. Again, a gorgeous atmosphere. It is huge and clean and new. I have only been there for one treatment so I can’t give anything other than an initial impression, but I loved it and will definitely go back. If you’ve been up in Iraq for a while (or driving in traffic in Kuwait – same thing), book yourself a treatment (male or female). It is guaranteed to de-stress.

Rental Car Agency

I have only one on my list: Automall (formerly Payless) in Rai. Talk about service! They will drop off/pick up to you anywhere in Kuwait and do their best to get you a car in your choice of colors. Consistent with their policies and procedures, kind and professional. Reasonable rates. Unfortunately, they only do GMC and Subaru rentals.

Doctors

GP: Dr. Eman Badawi at the International Clinic. She is a GP but also specializes in asthma.

OBGYN: Dr. Gazawi at Royal Hyatt. I love the RH. It is like a peaceful resort rather than going to see your personal doctor. They make having your vajayjye looked at seem like a tranquil experience.

Dentist: Don’t have a favorite – they all frighten me (this is not limited to Kuwait). I have heard that Gulf Clinic is good (and I want to go there for Invisilyn braces as soon as I have enough cash). Slapps goes to Dr. Sexy at the International Clinic. We just call him that to give him a hard time. His real name is Dr. Edgar.

Hotels

Ok, it really isn’t fair for me to make a pick because there are only 2 that I have actually slept in: The Kuwait Plaza (now the “Swiss Inn”) and the Holiday Inn Salmiya. I HAD to stay at the Swiss Inn and no – not going to make a recommendation on that one. I chose to stay at the HI Salmiya and it was noisy. I have heard that the 4-Points Sheraton is fantastic. I have had several friends at different times stay there on business trips to Kuwait and highly recommended it.

Now, I can tell you about the ones that I think are the prettiest without having seen a room: Marina Hotel (on the sea), Movenpick at Bidaa (on the sea), Hilton (on the sea). Hotels with the best overall restaurants: Sheraton and Crowne Plaza.


2010 Updates

Kuwaiti:
Al Setinat in Hawalli. Service is still so-so, but the food is the best and they deliver. 22665559

Steaks:
Desmond has moved! He's at The Meat Co. now in 360. The Meat Co replaces Gaucho as my favorite, but only if you can afford to pay their OMG ouch prices!

The Meat Co. also has a good salmon salad! (Someone heard my prayers.)

Anybody know where to get decent fish & chips in Kuwait? The Ritz used to own that, but not anymore.

DG Ramadan Advice

Disclaimer: This is my personal advice. You can put your own advice on your own blog. I don't want to hear from haters saying, "You stupid foreigner! Why don't you go back to your own country if you disrespect ours." Ok - to that I say, 'Dudes - I love this country and none of what I am about to say is meant with disrespect, nor is it anything that many of you dudes don't already do, know about and/or discuss.' So there.

For those of you just getting off the banana boat, some DG words of advice on Ramadan in Kuwait. I don't know why companies and other Westerners try to freak out newbies to the Middle East on Ramadan. I love it. It is like an entire month of mass spiritualism and the happy atmosphere that surrounds it (ok, maybe not if you are in traffic with many smokers in the middle of a nicotine crisis during 110 degree weather, however). I guess it is all about attitude. Plus, work hours are shortened and there are all kinds of yummy Ramadan foods around. Newbies - get out there and try some! Ramadan isn't about the woes of not being able to eat for a month for fear of getting in trouble; nor for the dread of horrible drivers on the road. There is so much more to it.

What NOT to do: Attention Newbies! Do not: Eat, drink, chew gum, chew tobacco, pop a tic-tac, smoke or kiss in public (which is illegal in Kuwait anyhoo) during daylight hours.

Do not go grocery shopping during the 3-4 days prior to Ramadan (2014:  June 28/29 - July 28/29 - depending on da moon). It is vicious-scary as everyone tries to stock up on food. I have seen people push down pregnant women trying to get into the check-out line.

Office Etiquette: If you are working with those who are fasting (most offices in Kuwait), get the "lay of the land"/ask co-workers what’s cool and what isn’t - before trying to sneak something to eat or drink in your office. One of my colleagues keeps a big thermos of coffee in his office and draws the shades. Don't smoke in your office - that's just dumb and might get you in trouble. People can smell smoke (duuh) and might report it to someone. If you are working on base, of course, military rules apply.

How to tell if a Kuwaiti isn't fasting: They are standing at the hot food (take-away) counter at Sultan Center at noon. You are allowed go give knowing glances and/or giggle. Almost all the Kuwaitis I know fast, but then, I do know others who don't.

How can you tell when it is "ok" to eat/drink? You have to be sure that it is after sunset because even if it is a few minutes before, you could potentially still get in trouble with the law. Right around sunset, you will hear the call to prayer. If you are tuned to any Kuwaiti radio or TV station, they will broadcast the call to prayer and then it is ok to eat. If you are sitting in a restaurant and think that it is sunset, wait first to see if other people start eating.

Note that if you order food prior to sunset, you will be in for a long wait. Ditto on the take-out as you are going to have to wait in line with a lot of other people picking up food for their families (modern day lifestyles).

What happens if you get caught by the po-po eating/drinking/smoking/chewing gum, etc during the day? They wisk you away to jail where you will remain until the end of Ramadan. Good times. What you might try to do this year is start coughing and spewing flem violently if caught. Tell them that you have just travelled to Mexico and you are starting to develop a fever, rash, and fits of vomiting, "Is it just me or is it really hot in your police car? I'm burnin up! cough, cough, flem spew...". It might just land you in the infectuous diseases hospital; however, which is only one step up from jail. At least you'll have TV.

Plan to stay off the Gulf Road around sunset: It becomes the Autobahn for Idiots. I personally have seen people (including small children) die/torn to pieces in accidents because idiot drivers think they HAVE to be home exactly at sunset (they don't). Puhleeze people: if you see a car speeding up behind you with its lights flashing, GET THE F OUT OF THE WAY! This actually could apply to any time of the year in Kuwait but moreso during Ramadan (Bobarino - this really applies to you). Do you think the maniac (Arabic or English tense - your choice) is gonna slow down just because you are there and you want to show how stubborn you can be???? Noooooo. Repeat after me: They just don't care. Keep your camera in the car during Ramadan to get the very best horrific auto accident photos.

Sunset Cruising: The BEST time to shop at the co-ops and the Sultan Center is at sunset. It is also a great time for westerner singles to see other western singles because everybody is there at the same time when it is quiet. Restaurants and shops are often open all night. It is fun and a lot of people go out. Personally, I love it. Most of the major hotels have buffets in tents or in their ballrooms.

If you are single and want to mingle, an hour before sunset every evening during Ramadan is the time to meet someone. You know the saying – anything taboo is going to be more fun, right? A lot of people either walk or drive along the Gulf Road. If you are out there and want to go home, wait 15 to 20 minutes after sunset before moving to make sure the crazy drivers are already back in their homes.

First and last week of Ramadan: Generally, Kuwaiti people will meet with their family and friends during the first week of Ramadan, and then the restaurants will start to fill up as everybody goes out to socialize. The last 10 days of Ramadan are the most spiritual, so a lot of people go to the mosque those nights.

Respect: Loud music (parties), and clothing that isn’t modest (micro-minis or speedos, for example) might not be a good idea throughout the month; both are disrespectful. If the po-po turns a blind eye to partying the rest of the year, they probably won't be as forgiving during Ramadan.

Petty Theft Increase During Ramadan: If you are planning to walk at any of the popular paths/areas during Ramadan – do not EVER leave valuables (purse, wallet, even mobile phones) in your car. Thieves know that people do this and they have and will break into your car to get them. As an extra added bonus, thieves also understand that the police are not going to rush to your rescue at sunset when they haven’t eaten all day. Someone broke into my car at Ras Salmiya’s parking lot at sunset and stole my purse (hidden under the passenger seat) from my Discovery. The police told me to file a report – the NEXT day! I don’t even want to begin to tell you what a pain in the ass it is to try to get new Kuwaiti IDs. It’s not fun. I made the unfortunate mistake of also having several US-based credit cards and my Virginia driver’s license. That really sucked. One of my Kuwaiti friends had a Lexus and the thieves broke through his glass sunroof. That’s just downright dispicable: It costs so much more to replace sunroof glass than the side windows, but thieves also know that many alarm systems don’t go off with entry through a sunroof. I think the thieves also knew that most Discoveries have problems with their door locks (among many many other maintenance issues).

Niceties: What to say to people as a polite Ramadan greeting: Mubarak Alayk Shahar ("Happy month" basically) or "Ramadan kareem" (Ramadan is generous).

Invitations: If you have Kuwaiti friends, they may invite you to their homes during Ramadan (and if you know me - please do because I love the invites! Pick me! Pick me!). It is always good to bring something like a tray of sweets or even a covered dish. Don't think that it is rude if they don't put it out - it is customary (but not always) for people to serve food that they have made first. Neighbors often exchange covered dishes (sometimes marked with their initials on the bottom so they know what belongs to whom) with each other during Ramadan and dayam - do I wish that my neighbors would because whatever they are cooking - it smells fantastic! If you accept an invitation, expect to eat a lot. Every night is like a Thanksgiving feast and Kuwaitis are known for their hospitality - especially during Ramadan. Ramadan foods are generally quite heavy, so wear your stretchy pants.

Charity: Like Thanksgiving or Christmas, Ramadan is a time to remember those less fortunate. If you have a building guard (hariss) who is Moslem -- or not, Ramadan is a good time to extend hospitality to him by bringing a covered plate/dish. I used to love my building guard and regularly cooked for him. People give alms to the poor on Eid, and you will also see charitable Ramadan tents feeding masses of workers. You might also notice people being more generous to street workers and beggars. Similar to the Western custom of tipping people who have given you service at Christmas, Eid is the time in this part of the world.

Lent in Overdrive: If you want to look at it like this, Ramadan is Lent in overdrive. Moslems give up sustainance during the day to empathize with those who have to go without - not out of choice. I have Christian friends who fast during Ramadan because it is spiritual/grounding. It makes sense to fast for the right reasons.

I have enjoyed fasting; it makes me feel like I'm part of a collective spiritual act. I like it better when I break fast with others, however. It is really no fun when you are alone (and then I start to think more about my Kuwaiti friends who were in the US during Ramadan and how I might have been more understanding/compassionate). Just like Christmas dinner, you know that everyone else in the country is doing the same thing that you are at just the same time. It is a nice feeling.

Guergee'an (Mid-Ramadan): If you see little kids all dressed up in festive clothes around mid-month, that's "guergee'an" (sp?). You might also see co-ops and grocery stores selling a mixture of nuts and candy - either loose or in packages. Guergee'an is a holiday indiginous to Kuwait. In the old days, the wee ones would follow a male leader (not MJ) with a lantern (I can't remember the name they have for dude), singing the guergee'an song (maybe someone can send me the lyrics in English or Arabic and I'll write another post about it); and go door-to-door, singing for candy. These days, Kuwaitis generally have guergee'an parties for kids (instead of the door-to-door thing) and households will often make their own home-made baskets or boxes of nuts/candy to distribute to friends and family members (I prefer Patchi please). I guess Guergee'an is similar to Halloween, but without the Pagan ramifications nor the tricks. You won't see anyone toilet-papering houses during Guergee'an (sad, really).

At the end of Ramadan - Eid

Mass Lamb Murders: Kuwaitis eat a lot of lamb and during Ramadan, lamb is also given to those less fortunate. One woman I know and her family cook enough food (not just lamb) for 500 poor people every Eid. There will be a lot of tragic lamb murders prior to Eid, so if you like the cuddly little baa-baa's - stay away from the back side of the Friday Market (bad traffic also). You might see lambs in your neighboorhood; they won't be there very long. Don't form an attachment.

Eid clothes: Beware of clothes shopping and traffic during the week before Eid. For those of you living in the shopping district in Salmiya, get used to the traffic. It gonna git ugly from 7ish on. People buy new clothes for Eid and for some reason, they have to shop immediately prior to Eid instead of doing it year-round when there might be sales. Go figure.

Banking before Eid: If you can avoid going to the bank for the few days before Eid, you should do so. Traditionally, Kuwaitis give children money for Eid. It used to be in small denominations, but with inflation and the economy, it has been increasing. People rush to the bank to ask for stacks of new bills. Banks know this and they have them on hand and they can't be had through the ATM.

Additional cash requirements during Eid: Black market alcohol prices rise tremendously during Eid, so that may be a consideration for some of you criminals/evil-doers. .... I'm just say'in. Maybe you need it for church or something.

If you are planning a trip during Eid, you'd better book in advance. Tickets to the UAE and Bahrain (and other places) go fast and it is always a mad rush at the airport.

F-ing fire crackers during Eid: I HATE this part of the holiday. Every small convenience store stocks up on fire crackers and the little imps run out even early in the morning and start making noise. Just when you thought you could get a little sleep over the holiday.... bam bam bam! It scares poor DesertDawg and she is usually under my bed for 3 days.


Have a happy, blessed month and may God accept all your prayers.

DG Academy for Arabic

I received an e-mail from a lady who is moving to Kuwait soon and she would like to learn Arabic. There are several places that you can do this and I think it is great to learn.

Just keep in mind that Kuwait's dialect is WAAAY different than what you will learn in school. "How are you?" in local dialect, par example, translates in English to "What's your color?" (mood). Anywhere else in the Arab world people would 1) immediately recognize you as having lived in Kuwait and B) Look at you and say, "WTF?"

Because she is nice and I consider her a new friend, I sent her the Desert Girl Listing of Common Terms and Insults.

I have had an internal debate raging since then - should I publish it on my blog in all its glory (vulgarity - some quite extreme that might shock younger readers and might get me in trouble); or should I just offer it to anyone who asks?

I think I must do the latter.

So, if anyone would like my personal favs, please send me an e-mail with "DG Academy for Arabic" in the subject line and I promise to shock and awe you. Plus, if there are any phrases that I have left out, please feel free to ask. Bunny helped me and I think he did a fantastic job; however, he is going to wait to go to the diwaniya and ask for their assistance later which may bring in better results.

The FREE DG listing includes a section for "Practical", "Romantic Shit" and "Insulting/Vulgar" [for example, "Fart" and "Fart (silent killer)" are explained] - plus as a bonus, you receive a variety of cleaver ways to say, "FU".

No postage or tuition fees apply! Write NOW to receive your free copy!

The characters represented here are not Kuwaiti. They are from the UAE hit show, "Freej"; however, they provided the look of shock I was going for.

How to find an Apartment in Kuwait

Christopher all the way from Cambridge, Massachusetts ("Ma shooft Yousef" bil Arabi), sent me a little e-mail recommending that I “write a few lines” about how to find an apartment in Kuwait. Well Christopher, it like dis: I can’t ever just write a FEW lines about anything, so here goes the entire deal on how to find a home in Kuwait. By the by, this goes for finding a villa also (pretty much).

What you will need

A good attitude: Patience. Lots of it; However you can get it, get it. A “happy place”
Chocolate (or whatever your crutch is)
Kleenex (incase it gets to be too much for you and you need a good sob).
A car (taxi) Lots of relaxing/tranquil music (maybe Yanni or Kenny G). Gas.
Someone who speaks Arabic
Copies of Waseet or Alhadaf classified papers

The process

Remove all weapons and sharp objects from your vehicle and/or person. This will help avoid a prison sentence when dealing with realtors and building guards (called “hariss” here).

Ok, seriously, if you are an English-only speaker, you really do need someone to help you translate – either from the classified ads or by going around building-to-building and asking the guards if there are vacancies. Sometimes, you can find a mandoob (expeditor/gopher guy) where you work or you can ask them to refer you to someone who can translate for a small amount of money. If you can’t find someone at work, or don’t feel comfortable asking for personal favors, taxi offices can often help and they can play a dual role in driving you around to find a place if you are new.

Zero to 30 days in Kuwait

If someone is new to Kuwait, they probably won’t get their civil ID for the first 30 days, so the employer should provide accommodations during the first month.

30 days to 6 months in Kuwait

After the first 30 days in Kuwait, I strongly recommend getting into a short term or furnished place first, so you have the time to look for your ideal home. It isn’t a quick/easy process.

During this timeframe, you are still in culture shock, but you are beginning to get it. You have to look for a place to live, but you are still freaked out by the idea and don't really want to be locked into something permanent because it is all so new. AAA Housing and Frost Real Estate are the two most reputable companies in Kuwait. I see them as "halfway houses" for people who are new to Kuwait and transitioning into life here. They provide the comforts of home in familiar surroundings and se haba English.

AAA only does furnished accommodations; Frost will provide unfurnished with benefits (phone, satellite TV, maid and laundry services on request). Both AAA and Frost furnishings are to western standards (both have websites). Expect to pay more for both.

6 months plus in Kuwait

So you are ready to find your ideal place. You have a pretty good "lay of the land" since you've been here for 6 months. You know what the traffic is like. You have either seen or heard about the places that you want to live. You have several options: Realtors, classifieds, and “hoofing it” by driving around to places you might want to live and asking for vacancies.

Realtors

Don’t expect miracles: Bait and switch is common. Untruths are common. It will be frustrating to say the least. You will make an appointment to meet and they will be late or send someone else. Some realtors will smoke and have poor personal hygiene. They will never ever have photos of their properties.

Finding a realtor: Ask questions of people you work with, check online and in the Kuwait Pocket Guide. Classified papers like Waseet and Alhadaf will have listings of available apartments and realtors (in English when/if you can find them).

Realtors generally work in specific areas: Seaside/Salmiya, Salwa/Rumaithia, Fahaheel/Mangaf. Ask what areas they work out of.

Work the list: Compile lists of realtors and go through the list to touch base. Don’t expect them to follow up; they’re generally not that professional. Don’t expect them to respond to you through their websites as many don’t ever check their e-mail. Call.

Realtors who commonly deal with Westerners: Target, Saba Real Estate, Eastern Homes, York Real Estate, Century 21. (There are more, but these are the ones I deal with.)

Commission: Note that realtors take a half month rent commission from you as the renter and another half month rent from the building owner. This is standard.

Be Aware of Con Artist Realtors: I met with a building owner and discovered something quite scary: Harisses who work with realtors to dupe you into paying a commission that they don't deserve. What happens is that YOU go to see a building and the hariss tells you that the building is being managed by a third-party realtor and that even though YOU have gone to the building and found it yourself, you must pay the commission to the realtor handling the building rental/management. I have had 2 experiences with this lately. At one building, the hariss didn't speak English and a bee-bop man walked right past the hariss and told me that I had to pay a commission to him. Thankfully, I knew the building owner and dropped his name. Just heard a story about a management company that rented a complex with 4 buildings for 3 months. They turned around and rented out every apartment in the complex and got tenants to pay 6 months in advance plus a security deposit. Then, skipped the country. Here's the skinny: They may ask you to sign a rental agreement with the realtor and you might not know that you actually have to sign with the building owner. Since the hariss is the one working the deal, you wouldn't know it. The building owner told me that this is a very dangerous con because then you are out not only your deposit but you don't have a valid rental agreement. So, how do you find out what is real and what isn't? The hariss should immediately tell you who the building owner is: if the realtor commission is legitimate, then they will have no problem with you contacting the building owner's office. If they are hesitant, then you know something is hinky. I'll write more about this when I find out more.

Write to me (mailto:amerab@gmail.com) you would like to get my personal list of favorite realtors. I'm not going to post it as it is subject to change and I'm too damn lazy to update it all the time.

Hoofing it – going building-to-building

Driving around in an area where you might want to live is probably the best way to find a good deal in the exact area you want to live. This is where your interpreter/cabbie comes in handy. “Fee shuqqa fathi?” means “Is there an apartment available?” Kuwaitis generally drive around Kuwait looking for apartments because landlords often don’t advertise or use realtors (both cost money). Wear comfortable shoes because there will be lots of running in/out of places. Most apartments in villas won't have elevators.

Note: if you find a place you LOVE and it is completely occupied, make friends with the hariss and offer to give him some money (I recommend 30 to 50 kd) to get you in as soon as one becomes available. I take this money to be an investment. Get the guy's number and call him back every now and then to see if anyone has moved. Take him some cookies. (I have my eye on 3 properties for both myself and The Romanian right now.)

Dreams of grandeur

Please don’t expect to find what you are used to in the West in Kuwait’s local apartment market. Aint gonna happen. Many buildings don’t even use interior designers for placement of walls. Most places do not require occupants to re-paint or even clean the apartments once they have vacated. Many landlords won’t even sweep the floors before showing the apartments to potential tenants. Some apartments still have squat toilets (which you can ask the landlords to remove/replace; they are stinky. Purchasing your own sanitary equipment is not expensive either.) Landlords often won’t change water boilers, so that is an expense you may have – don’t freak out. They aren’t expensive compared to the West (around 70 kd). The building guard can generally get you another and have it installed.

Zoning - We Don't Need No Stinkin' Zoning!

If you live on a farm (in Western countries), you might hear roosters crowing in the morning. If you live in a high-rise residential complex in Kuwait you might hear roosters crowing in the morning. You might see a sheep tied to a lamp post in your neighborhood (means that it will be slaughtered by homeowners/landlord - take your children away from windows). Get used to it. "Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore."

Unfurnished apartments in Kuwait often do not have kitchen appliances or closets. If you have a lot of clothes and are a single occupant, consider getting a 2 bedroom so you can create your own walk-in closet (SHOOOOOES!). Many apartments here also have a “maids” room (which is more like a cell) that can be used for storage (I had shelves put in). (Large wardrobe closets can be found at the Friday Market for around 85 KD each. There are also lots of carpenters (inexpensive) if you have something special in mind (Carrie Bradshaw, eat your heart out!)

The good thing is that many places in the local market don’t ask you for a security deposit – although that trend is changing.

Things to look for/things to ask

Who are the neighbors? If a building is full of single guys, it will most likely be used as a party place only on the weekends. “F flats” as they are known is where many a married guy will bring his mistress on the weekend for a drink and more. If the apartment has 2 doors and the windows are covered by either aluminum foil or lining sticker rolls, for sure, it has been used for either a party or an F flat. Be cautious as you may have unwanted visitors at night if they don't know that the former occupant has moved. The best way to find out what is going on in a building is to go back and visit on a weekend night after 10:30 pm. Keep in mind that the audio systems used for parties here can be heard from passing planes (I jammed out on a BA flight leaving Kuwait one night, flying over a party in the desert playing 50 Cent…)

Something to consider: While you think it might be nice to be in a complex with 100% Westerners, know that the company housing the majority of Western employees in Kuwait (CSA) has a policy specifically against this. They house their employees in buildings with a percentage of westerners to a percentage of occupants of other countries (locals, etc.) for security purposes. Don't make yourself an easy target, even though I personally have never found this to be a big concern (it may be to others). (I've always lived in multi-national buildings/areas in the US.)

Where is the mosque? If the mosque minaret is next to the bedroom window, you might want to consider another place unless you like to be woken up at dawn and reminded to pray. Westerners usually aren’t accustomed to the call to prayer; No disrespect to anyone's religious beliefs.

Where is the pool? Little people can be mighty noisy and you are in a country where parents believe that it is ok for children to be up all night without a bedtime. Check out what the pool sounds like at night or on the weekends when the kids are there. (Thanks for bringing this to my attention, Anonymous 11/6)

Does the apartment have both central A/C and heat? Lots of apartments here won’t have heat in the winter and it gets coooooold. When they tell you that you don’t need it, consider getting out of the shower in the morning when the temperature is down around zero (not saying that it will actually get that cold in Kuwait – but it has).

Do the windows have double-paned glass? A big selling point for apartments in Kuwait is that they are “on the main road”. As Westerners, we might not like the fact that the place is 5 feet from a highway. People like to honk their horns in the morning – especially when they are picking up kids for school. Double-paned glass is also important when the temperature gets up to holy-shit-that’s-hot.

Are there temperature controls on the water? This is kind of a trick question because most realtors and building guards won’t know the answer. Consider this – it is holy-shit-that’s-hot degrees outside and you want a cold shower: if there is no temp control on the water, you gonna boil like a lobster at a Cape Cod outing and there is nothing you can do to get cold (turning off the water boiler and using the hot for cold in the summer sometimes resolves this issue).

Does the apartment have internet/DSL and satellite TV? If not, no big deal. There are lots of places who will install it for you, but that means additional running around and cost.

Who pays for electricity and water? Often, the landlord will pay or you can pay slightly extra per month (around 5 kd) and they will take care of it for you. If not, refer to "Utilities" section below.

Is parking provided? Believe it or not, I know of 3 new buildings with a maximum of seven spaces to each building. Don't assume that there will be underground parking. Don't assume that there will be any parking! If you are looking for an apartment during the day, go back there at night to see how people are parked. Drive by and see what the traffic conditions are. Also, it gets holy-shit-that’s-hot here and shaded parking is a factor.

Responsibilities of the building guard (hariss)

Takes out your trash. Kuwait buildings are not equipped with something as simple as a trash shoot. Trash is generally left in the stairwell and the hariss collects it at night.

Washes your car. If you drive a high-end car, you might want to consider buying and providing cleaning equipment to your hariss and asking him to wash it only with water. Sometimes they will just wipe it down with a rag and your paint job suffers tiny little scratches.

Porter: Assists you in carrying items to your apartment.
Assists in small handyman jobs.
Brings cooking gas.

Payment to the hariss: For washing the car and taking out the trash, the standard payment is 5 kd per month (required or your trash will pile up). If he demands 10kd (1. too much and b. he shouldn't demand), then there is a problem, Houston; unless it is your decision to pay him extra. I’ve found that if you bring your hariss a covered plate once in a while, tip a little extra, or maybe even bring him some used/new clothing, he will do just about anything in the world for you.

Lease agreements

You will need a civil ID in your name for the lease and perhaps a copy of your passport. Make sure that they provide you a copy in English.

I freaked out when I came to Kuwait because I didn’t know if I was going to like the place that I selected after a few months. I was new and I couldn’t tell, so I was worried about breaking the lease and having to pay up (as it is in the US). Not so in Kuwait. You have a 1 year lease, but you can leave by giving your landlord 30 days written notice.

Furnishings

There are lots of furniture stores in Kuwait: Ikea, Midas, Safat Al-Ghanim, The One (the cheapest I've found is Banta in Dajeej). Kuwaitis like to change furniture all the time, so there is lots of competition. However, the prices are high compared to the US (dunno about the UK cause I’m ‘merican). Dhajeej area (between 6th Ring Road and the airport) has lots of small places that will build furniture for you. I brought one of these guys a photo of a Roche Bobois sofa and Crate & Barrel table and I had both of them made within 2 weeks at 1/3 of the price. After 5 years, both pieces have weathered very well. The cool thing is that I’m indecisive and so I had 3 sets of sofa covers made. These shops will also coordinate curtains to furniture. If you are into decorating, it can be a lot of fun.

There are also antiques places around Kuwait, but most of the treasures aren't Kuwaiti, they're Indian. Write to me for info on antiques places around Kuwait.

Decor

Now, this is something that you might not think about right away, but in the US, most landlords are very particular about what you can and can not do to decorate apartments. I lived in one building where they wouldn't even allow you to hang pictures on the wall. Kuwait is a free for all on interior decor. Don't like the flooring? Change it. Don't like the kitchen tiles? Change them. I'm leaving my apartment now after 11 years and I have changed just about everything. It was fun. Consider this: There is no minimum wage in Kuwait, so anything labor-intensive will be less. You can have things done cheaper than in the US.

Appliances

Xcite (Alghanim electronics)  is the biggest and most reputable. Their service is pretty good and they pick up/deliver. You can purchase appliances through them on monthly installments and online (they'll deliver to your house and install.)

Considerations: If you are buying a refrigerator with an ice maker, check the water hook up in the apartment first. Most stoves ("cookers") are heated with propane gas. Tanks are switched out once they are used. The hariss or the neighborhood convenience store (called "dikan" or "baqala") will deliver for less than a dinar.

Utilities

Landline phone: Ask your company's mandoob for his help. You can get a landline for 100 kd per year and all local calls are free. You will need your civil ID. You will not receive a bill or notification when payment is due. You should go to the ministry of communications in the area where you live (or have a mandoob go for you) annually to pay up.

Electrity and Water: Often provided by the landlord. If it isn't, again ask the mandoob for his assistance. You will need to go to the Ministry of Electricity & Water in your area with your civil ID and 100 KD deposit to have the electricity put on. 90% of the time, you will never receive an electricity bill. The average is 5KD per month on an apartment. You should have your mandoob (if possible) go to check with the ministry annually to see how much you owe and to pay up. (Personal note, I got busted after 11 years with an 800 KD bill. I giggle.)

Miscellaneous

Convenience stores: Lots of neighborhoods have convenience stores that you can call and they will deliver just about anything (including propane for the stove)

Addresses in Kuwait are almost non-existent. Until very recently, most streets weren't named/identified. Note your address on your lease. Mail will usually NOT be delivered to your residence. Consider a post office box (at your areas Ministry of Communications for 4 kd per year) or having mail delivered to your office.

Emergency Services: 112. They may/may not answer. Have a plan. Know where the closest ER is (this goes by area where you live also, so know what hospital services the area where you reside/what address is on the back of your Civil ID.   Know who to call (your employer, a friend, etc.)

Security: If your apartment doesn't have a peep-hole in the front door, have one installed. Beggars often find out where a Westerner lives, and will knock on your door relentlessly. Inform your hariss. Security cams are available at some places in Hawalli and you can have them installed over your door. Consider an apartment starting on the 2nd floor and up because thieves can break in through windows while you are out. If you are away for a long time, put your valuables in a bank safe deposit box. Break ins are becomming more common in Kuwait.

DG List of Realtors
(Almost all realtors ask for 50% of the first month's rent.)

#1 Realtor on my list is Zamina of Comfort Real Estate.  EVERYBODY is happy with her.  Phone 99464866.
Dana, 2468388, 2406582
Wael Sulaiman, York, 9930-1217
Marty, Frost Real Estate, 9972-3196 (furnished and unfurnished)
AAA Housing (furnished ONLY) 2246-5888
Mojgen, Target, 6661-9151.
Joey, 6670-5800 (mostly Salmiya)
Joanna, Capital Real Estate, 99136410
Sofia, 97134433
Aziz 66770840
Spanish Villas (multiple properties) 25658983, 99826883
Northern Star 25639183
Wael Sulaiman, York, 9930-1217
Amr, Al Kawthar, 9901-0315 or 243-3325
Abu Ahmed, 66920123
Catherine, 25632813
Dana, 2468388, 2406582
Nelly 9932-1096
Nadi 9723-5252
The Accommodators - 99746024 or Fax: 25630918

I love this service:  www.masahati.com/  - They have an interactive map with photos.
Q8Realtors (properties with photos):  www.q8realtor.com/ 

If you have any questions, you can always feel free to write to me at amerab@gmail.com an I will try to assist.

Moving to Kuwait

I received the comment below today from someone and I really thought I should post it as others might be in the same boat as this gentleman. I have seen/heard similar sentiments lately and for the record, I would like to state my opinion and provide information that may be of assistance.

Comment:

"I read your entire blog... I was planning on moving to Kuwait and I was so excited. I started to read about Kuwait and all I read, not just from you, is NEGATIVITY. Its sad because I got a extraordinary job offer that would make my career take off. It sounds like a nightmare living there. I've lost countless hours of sleep and wasted months of preparation agonizing over this. It makes me depressed, I'm scared to move there and have to drive. I'm scared I might get beat up in the mall.

Best of all... I quit my f-ing job already and can't get rehired due to company policy.

I doubt you will post this, but I wanted you to know..."

Desert Girl:

I have no problem posting your comment, but equally - I will post my reply.

Ok, my posts have been negative of late - in a self proclaimed state of depression - but I gotta tell you, your comments were equally as negative. Didn't you read any of my positive posts if you have read my entire blog? Look right to the right side of this page, at "life in the desert". I WROTE that and I MEAN it.

I come from the Washington DC area. If you don't think there is negativity THERE - in the seat of (American) our country/government, you are sadly mistaken. (New York had major crime problems in the 80's too BTW and several million people managed to live there regardless.) EVERY country in the world has pros and cons. Kuwait is a completely different culture and environment than the country you are coming from and you should expect differences.

In the US, we live in Virginia. It, like other US states, has a concealed weapon law (allowing both bullets and guns to be marketed) which means that if someone gets road rage, you risk life and limb in a shoot out. Neither are legal in Kuwait and those who posess guns are dealt with very severely. I have seen 3 shoot outs at close range in Washington DC between police and average Joe- looking folks of the criminal element.

In all honesty, if I didn't love some aspects of this country, I wouldn't stay here - there would be no reason to. I've been here for 12 years and I took a 2/3 paycut to get here. Why? Because I love the culture, the people, THE FOOD, the laid-back lifestyle, and both the sea and the desert. I learn something new here every single day (positive or negative).

And by the way, I came here to work in 1996 as a single woman travelling alone. In 1996, there weren't a whole lot of resources for people moving here. For that matter - there weren't a whole lot of Westerners here - period. The internet was not what it is now (and neither was the embassy nor other Western organizations). Most people/places didn't have internet or e-mail. (I typed or hand-wrote letters to my family.) When I first arrived, I had 2 suitcases and my teddy bear. I lived in a downtown hotel with NO other woman in the hotel. I worked at a company where I was forced to wear a hejab. Be strong, little buckaroo! If I made it under those circumstances - I am SURE you will do well here in 2008/9!

I mean no disrepect to you, but anyone who would move to a foreign country without visiting it first is taking a TREMENDOUS risk/leap in the dark (unless you are in the military and have no choice - are obligated to move). If you are a diplomat or in the military, you are covered by their security and resources; if you are a civilian and working for a private company, you must work out all the angles by yourself. I don't even want to visit a foreign country before first knowing complete details about it (which I guess you have been trying to gather from blogs). Without being on the ground, you can't get a feel for it. Spend the extra money on a ticket and visit. Then, ask perspectives from different people. I spent a month here living with a Kuwaiti family (on my first visit in 1993) before I ever moved here - and even armed with all the information I gathered during that time, it was still a difficult decision. Knowledge is power.

If, as you say, you got an "extraordinary job offer that would make my career take off" - I am sure you will do just fine and in a few years time, it will look fantastic on your resume. You will look back at your memories of Kuwait and the region and have something to tell (if not bitch about to) your grandkids.

Further, everything happens for a reason. Maybe you were meant to come here; to meet people who (or see a culture/community that) might affect your life in some profound way. Maybe it will take the course of your life to a new and unexpected level. You quit your job and decided to move here, didn't you? Don't doubt the plan at the 11th hour.

Oh, and lease a big car like a Yukon or Tahoe with full coverage if you are worried about the driving. Get something big and safe and intimidating. No problems.

Nobody is going to jump you in a mall unless you jump into a fight. The problems that are happening here are between young Kuwaiti boys (not men). I doubt that anybody is going to steal a man's bling. They've got easier targets.

Here is the best advice I can give you (or anyone else moving here):

Visit Kuwait first. Invest in your future by coming here before you move. Do not blindly go where no one you know has ever gone before. Some places aren't for everyone. You don't know until you go!
Read travel guides, blogs, forums, books, etc.
Contact business and social groups in Kuwait with questions and become a member to help you transition into life/meet people/network.
Contact your embassy to see if they have any publications and/or advice - perhaps through an public outreach office.
Contact the Embassy of Kuwait in your home country. Ask them for books, pamphlets, information on Kuwait and their advice for people wanting to move here. The Kuwait Information Office in Washington DC does a great job of this.
Ask your new employers what information they can recommend/provide to you to help with your move/transition to Kuwait. Ask them if they know specific people who can assist you. Often, it won't occur to employers that they should provide this information, but if you ask for help, they will be willing to assist (if they are Kuwaiti, then it is cultural and they will feel obligated to help - most especially with newcomers to Kuwait - you will probably receive dinner and wedding invitations!).

If you have problems when you get to Kuwait, I'm happy to help you and anyone else who asks me. I promise. I really hope this helps you, dude!